PARIS FALL 2014
Paris is burning. The fall collection has been presented and the top trends have emerged. The Fashion world always looks to Paris to cross that T and dot that I. Below are my favorite looks for Paris Fall 2014.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Dries fall collection was a lesson in Optical illusion, gone are the feathers, maximum embroideries and details. Fall 2014 is streamlined, simple and detailed enough to keep the Dries woman joyous until Spring 2015. The Dries woman is an adventuress, drawing colors, shapes and ideas from different cultures and times. A man’s style coat is exquisitely designed with psychedelic swirls and stripes and worn with a 3D corsage
Peter COPPING is doing a fantastic job at Nina Ricci. Spring was a hit and fall was not bad. His fall outing was based on a woman’s day-to-day leisure and dresses from the boudoir. Coats were generous to wrap like blankets, dresses were of chiffon and lace, appliqued and beaded. It was about a woman’s Day to day attire, loungewear and going out after a long day at work. Copping will bring the comfort of home to a woman’s day-to-day wardrobe. Wearing Nina Ricci for fall will be like wearing your best lingerie.
Alexander Wang has become comfortable at his position at Balenciaga. His collection is grounded in performance sportswear. The House of Balenciaga is a laboratory of ideas. Sportswear is not your average run of the mill sportswear. It is infused with technology and a high dose of fashion. Cable knits were laminated with Latex or bonded in leather. Shrugs were designed with Sea urchin cluster embroidery. He is now a transatlantic designer and it shows in his presentation both for his own label and for Balenciaga.
One of the best collections to come out of Paris is Balmain, spearheaded by Olivier Rousteing. The young Frenchman that is making Balmain uber exclusive and very expensive. His Collection was all about Diversity. He stated that he is Black, French and is proud to be at Balmain. Did we say BLACK? Yes we did. I was just as surprised as you are. I’ve always thought that he had way too much coffee with just a little cream. His collection was all about Safari Chic mixed with Hip Hop. Rihanna style. Balmain was all about the cargo jacket, Cargo pants, leopard, Zebra, Leather and of course presented on the most diverse cast in all of Paris. He is black and he is Proud. Hip hip HOOOOOORAAAYYYY
WE LOVE BALMAIN.
Allesandro dell Aqua’s collection for Rochas was a continuation of the Silhouette left by Marco Zannini, The Peplum. His color mixture was genius, all muted and layered in all its boxy glory, accessorized with elbow length gloves that were pushed down in clashing colors. Coats were boxy, full, some in Blush. Skirts were of a longer length with sequin and bugle bead embroidery at the side seam. The Rochas woman is very special, loves details and is like an amazing perfume, you see the detail as it passes closely by.
There is no show on earth like a Lanvin show. It’s a Cinematic experience. Its like a drumroll of the most amazing exits. This season was a moody shadowed experimental trip on the wild side. It was like a Glamourized version of Comme des Garcons. The Lanvin woman is all about excess; in furs, layers of luxe fabrics, embroidery and ruffles. All that and then some were presented in a Bond like experience. Leave it to Alber Elbaz to shake things up a bit. To Deconstruct his silhouette a bit. He showed ruffled tweed, pleated leather, heavy fringe and created felt hats with a Mohawk in marabou.
Raf simons have tightened the reins on the medias interest in Dior. It was stipulated that stylist’s couldn’t pull Dior merchandise from any store or boutique worldwide. All media request must go through the Dior PR office in NYC. Good luck if you get a response. Nevertheless, we love Dior. The infusion of neon colors in the collection is a blast of fresh air, an injection of youth into a ladylike couture house. For Raf Simons, It’s all in the details. A pink dress was given a dose of modernity with slits and neon touches and garnished with a sprig of Diamante”. His color choices are sublime. An oxblood suit was paired with shocking bubblegum pink mink. A forest green pantsuit was shown with a Cerulean blue mink. In the accessory department Dior’s shoes are a morph of space age cartoon like shapes with a carved heel. Bags were in saturated color with a sprig of diamante”.
Junya showed an almost entire all black collection for fall. The entire collection was based on patchwork. Circles appliqued and piece together in Brocade, Boucle, velvets, satins, silk, sequins leather, leatherette, and lace. All were ruffled, and layered to create to most amazing avante garde shapes. The shaped couture like down jackets that seem like a vertical series of bubbles made a return from his fall 2009 collection.
If ever there was a collection with the most amazing coats, it is here that the coat reigns supreme. This collection presented the most amazing coats in all of Paris. This was called “the show of the season”, quite an accomplishment for Chitose Abe, and The designer of Sacai. The label is fairly young but has become one of the top labels in fashion and with this collection it will be one of the top show in Paris next season. The collection was all about wrapping and the morphing of garments together to create a clone of perfection. For example, she morphs a Mongolian lamb biker jacket with a mans style orange tweed jacket and came up with a fantastic piece of a clone if ever there was one. A shearling jacket was morphed with a puffer to create an object of desire. Wool, Coats were made of Fur, Down, printed, zipped and in all its glorious warmth. . A coat is not a coat unless it’s a Sacai coat. If next fall winter is anything like this one, Sacai is the designer to go to for that it factor coat
In a world where clothes have been influenced by modern art, Celine stands alone. Simplicity, swaggish slouch and luxurious fabrics have become the staple for a Celine collection. Fall 2014 was masculine yet feminine, slouchy, yet rigid, modern yet reminiscent of the 40’s. Phoebe Philo has that uncanny ability to make what’s old, new again. Celine was all about the relaxed slouch, the fray of luxury and the femininity of masculinity
Gianbattista Valli appreciates the femininity of a woman. His fall collection was about volume, texture, print and very feminine clothes for beautiful feminine women. Valli’s collection is very close to couture, His workmanship, silhouette and amazing detail.
Maris Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, The design duo behind the uber label Valentino, Was once a label for your chic mother or grandmother but is now sophisticated, youthful and has that dose of energy that a girl needs so desperately. The Valentino girl is in her late twenties and up, probably an art dealer, works in the financial sector, has quite a disposable income, a collector of antiquates and Modern art and loves Beautiful clothes. Their collection was based on Italian Pop Art from the 60’s and 70’s. Therefore dots and mod prints were present with that 70’s silhouette.
Leonard is to Paris what Pucci is to Italy. In its glory days Leonard did the most amazing printed jersey dresses. The New designer Yiqing Yin, a Couturier who shows on the Chamber Syndicale calendar, did not reference its origin instead she looked to her native China. The shapes were sort of Samurai style with a Kimono influence. Prints were diffused instead of bold with draping and cinched with obi style belts.
Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy was about sophisticated luxury. He looks no longer to the streets but instead to the Avenues and Boulevards of Paris. His collection was soft, printed mixed with a hard edge of animal print, leather and furs. Gone are the sweatshirts, and sport like looks now replaced by Chiffon and leopard print swathed in leather and furs.
Fausto Puglisi is the designer at the helm of the storied house of Emmanuel Ungaro. I’m an Ungaro lover, a lover of the chevron, flower print, the Peplum, dots, the turban and the jersey draped dress. It’s a mystery how a designer cannot be influenced by all this. In my youth my dream was to assist at the House of Ungaro. I loved his Couture collection, and his shows. Fausto is influenced by Ungaro’s masculine esthetics along with the chevron print. It was a beautiful collection but I do hope that he would look to my aforementioned list of Ungaro staples. There’s a gold mine there.
COMME DES GARCONS
Comme des Garcons collection has always been works of art for the body. The theme for this collection is MONSTERS. It is away from the normal and ordinary standards of beauty. Which, in the fashion world MONSTER indicates larger than life, and more beautiful than beauty itself. The collection was a beauty to behold. Monstrous jackets in Prince of Wales check and pieces with shapes and texture. Maybe Rei Kawakubo builds monstrous armor for the body to defend us for the humdrum of mediocre fashion.
Chanel’s presentation at the Grand palais was a tutorial in looking chic while shopping at your local supermarket. Your local supermarket is now under the Chanel umbrella with CC’s on all its labels and a price adjustment to match. Super Marché Chanel is stocked with everything your household needs. Your regular garbage bags as we know it (Sac Poubelle) was labeled (Sac plus belle). The collection was very sportive, continuing his sneaker addiction as seen in his couture collection in January. The Kaiser sent out quite an option for the Chanel woman giving her a choice. Of course with Chanel’s collection, money was not an option. The Chanel woman carries her Chanel designed shopping basket to hold a selection of fruits and vegetables, probably grown at their local Chanel Farm.
Hedi slimanes rock and roll obsession is winding down. In the beginning it was young, fresh and revolutionary. Now it”s beginning to look basic and not so special. The newest thing about Saint Laurent is the shoe now splattered in rhinestones and gives that 60’s influence, which is one of the top trends for fall.
McQueen’s girls appear to be traipsing through the Scottish highlands. This was the feel of the set for McQueen’s Fall 2014 collection. We always see the most complex concoctions presented on the runway by Sarah Burton but alas, it never hits the store. It’s unfortunate when one sees the collection on the runway and get a diffused version of it in store. Its like a couture Collection, too expensive to produce for the masses.
It was the debut that we were all waiting for. Nicholas Ghesquiere’s collection for Louis Vuitton was presented at the Cour Carre du Louvre as all previous shows. We were all expecting to be knocked off our feet but we weren’t. We were impressed, and of course we were pleased. The collection was based on the A-line and was 60’s inspired. There were lots of leathers, suede’s a few fur and exotic skins. The new bag is the Miniature trunk, which is petite version of the classic LV trunk. Ghesquiere was all about workmanship. Molded leather, laser cut feathers. Patchwork leather and pleated leather. It was all in the details.