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15 Feb

New York Fall 2014

FALL 2014 HAS BEGUN
Winter is not yet over, but Fall 2014 has begun to unfold. The collection has started in New York where the top of the American contingent has shown. Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang, Thom Browne and Marc Jacobs, . These are the few that matters in American fashion. It then moves to London where Tom Ford, Mary Kantranzou and Burberry Prorsum shows then to Milan where Dolce and Gabbana, Prada, jil Sander, Marni and Bottega Veneta will show . The sparks fly in Paris when the top trends will finally emerge. Nicholas Ghesquiere will present his long awaited first collection for Louis Vuitton alongside, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Nina Ricci, Rochas, Alexander McQueen, Lanvin, Comme des Garcons, Celine and Saint Laurent. These are the super houses of Fashion. The ones that matters.
In our New York review our first stop is Prabal Gurung who presented a fantastic fall collection with major Tibetan influence. The Tibetan influence of burnt orange, draping, and cocoon wrapping all with a major sportswear feel. Skirts were draped at a slant; jackets were draped and nipped at the waist. The throat was wrapped with pashmina. Winter will be warm and cozy come Fall 2014.
Next stop is Alexander Wang where he had editors hiked all the way to Brooklyn to experience one of the top collections to be presented thus far. Wang merged Technology with fashion, creating heat technology fabrication and military and survival inspired shapes proving that Balenciaga was a natural step for him. Alexander Wang’s collection was a lesson in technology and modernity. This is what happens when couture meets street wear.
Rodarte’s collection was a throwback to the way they started. Tulle, patchwork and Chiffon, draped, smocked and embroidered to create something new and demi-couture like. Expect to see these on the sales floor of Ikram in July and August. Melody Hobson Lucas will most likely order the Star Wars dress.
Thom Browne’s Collection was an extreme exaggeration of oversize sleeves, nipped waist and shaped skirts. Exaggeration is the norm for Thom Browne until of course it hits the sales floor at Blake then the subtraction begins. The exaggeration will be minimized to fit the normal woman without being campy.
Proenza Schouler is one of the Top labels in New York. They may be young but they design like an old world couture house. It was all about structure with leather and embroidered details, all shown with a menswear-influenced loafer. Fabrics were geometric computerized prints, skirts were angular, jackets and coats were nipped at the waist.
Marc Jacobs label has been missing in action for quite a few seasons now. Nobody buys Marc Jacobs anymore. Its boxy silhouette and tweed styles are not of the moment. His departure from Louis Vuitton may be the beginning of a new life for Marc Jacobs, the Brand. For fall his collection was 60’s inspired and light as a snowflake. His signature color block dresses seems new for fall and his degrade ruffled pieces were a hit.
So, this fall New York was about structure, Modernity, Technologically advanced looks and fabrics and that structured boxy silhouette.
Next stop, London.
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PRABAL GURUNG

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ALEXANDER WANG

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RODARTE

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THOM BROWNE

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PROENZA SCHOULER

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MARC JACOBS

Patric Chauvez

Patric Chauvez is one of the top stylist in the city of Chicago and is the pen of this blog. He is a style contributor to the Chicago Tribune Sunday magazine his work has been featured in Elle Mexico , Vogue Portugal and French Vogue. Follow him on Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest , Tumbler and Twitter.

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