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25 Mar

Paris Fashion Week: Lanvin “A BUGS LIFE”

The life of a bug, we think, is beautiful, precious, and complex. Such is the Lanvin collection Alber Elbaz presented in Paris at the Ecole des Beaux-Art. As with all Lanvin shows, the music was like a Bond movie, fast pace and confident, like the Lanvin woman. Hemlines fell to the knees and beyond. A trend we saw in New York, Milan, and now Paris. Dresses were appliqued and printed with silk rosettes and jeweled bugs. We continue to see the exposed zipper. Blouses in silk organza, ruffled, layered and tucked into wool pleated trousers and full pleated skirts. All were worn with men style loafer and lace ups that were done in velvet, white leather, and patent leather. Fur chubbies /stoles,...
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25 Mar

Louis Vuitton’s Bedroom Romp in Paris

The Louis Vuitton collection was staged on a circular catwalk in the Cour Carre du Louvre in what appears to be a hotel with multiple doors. The program notes states that the entire collection has a touch of “Une Robe du Chamber,” an attitude of getting dressed up only to find the most glamorous destinations is ones own hotel room. As each door opens and the model steps out in her bedroom inspired look one could capture a male figure hastily getting dressed among LV trunks adding to the erotic escapades. Fabrics and structures derived from menswear have been rendered more feminine through their fabrication. From Marabou linings, to feather embroidered in a degrade effect. Marc Jacob presented...
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14 Mar

Rafs’ third time is a charm

Today I had an appointment to see the fall Dior collection at the atelier. This was an opportunity for me to take a closer look at the details that may have been missed from the initial viewing at the show.   Raf Simon’s Fall 2013 collection for Dior was a collaboration with the Andy Warhol foundation. Warhol’s iconic artwork was printed on silk and beaded onto the clothes in the atelier. The entire collection was 40's inspired with draping and sculpted details. The key details were, The hounds tooth,The bustier, The full skirt, The bow at the neck , and The bustle.   Frame bags were printed with Warhol’s sketches. Shoes and flats were done in suede with an “Eye” embroidered at the toe. An...
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14 Mar

CELINE, “ALL WRAPPED UP

  A Celine show is one of those fashion moments that all editors await. Her shapes are unlike anything. Her mix of colors are unsurpassed. And her choice of details are out of this world. This collection, Fall 2013, did not disappoint. Her silhouette was oversized, skirts were trumpet-like, and colors were an odd mixture only a Celine woman would understand. Coats were styled in such a way that it was placed over the shoulder and the sleeves tied in a knot at the front of the body to create the most amazing wrap.   Clutches were made of wool, leather and fur. They were zipped at the side or at the top. Some have just a sliver of color. Thigh high boots were a second skin in...
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14 Mar

Junya Watanabes’ biker chic

Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garcons collection was a lesson in avant-garde street style. This collection differs from the Comme des Garcons collection Rei Kawakubo presented earlier this week. Not many designers can pull off a collection based on a punk staple, the biker jacket. But of course he can and he did, and it was all zipped up. Instead of the prerequisite, the biker boot, he went one step further by showing the complete collection with high heel pumps in an array of magnificent colors. The masculine, slouchy trousers were done in denim and embellished with plaid patchwork. He even collaborated with the Spanish design house, Loewe, on a few limited edition pieces in leather. Designed by Junya Watanabe and...
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14 Mar

Comme des Garcons and the “Infinity of Tailioring”

Comme Des Garcons presented a fantastic collection on the “Infinity of Tailoring”. The collection was mostly black and white, but a few pieces were done in velvet inkjet print, which was collaboration between Rei Kawakubo and artist Daniel Michiels. Bows, bustles, rosettes, and serpentine shapes on the arm weren’t mere decoration, but an integral part of the pattern of each jacket and trouser in all its three-dimensional glory. The hairstylist Julien d’Ys did the wigs that each model wore, made to look like it has been scorched. This season, it seems that the trend is that designer are collaborating with artists and are taking influences from the art world. This became clear after making a re-see appointment with the press office to...
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6 Mar

Slumber Party With Marc

Sleepwear for daytime Marc Jacobs is having a slumber party and we are all invited. During NYFW, Marc Jacobs presented embellished silk pajama set for his eponymous label. For his turn at Louis Vuitton, he went for a sexier version of the sleepwear which included lace trimmed nighty and slip dresses. This is definitely a more grown-up sleep over....
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5 Mar

Saint Laurent Does Grunge

Grunge looks at Saint Laurent You could almost hear Nirvana’s Teen Spirit playing in the background as Hedi sent looks down the runway. The models hair was greasy and makeup smudged with careless angst. Flannel shirt were worn with more feminine lace dresses, fishnet stockings, motorcycle leather jacket, and combat boots. Dresses were short with peter-pan collars, conjuring images of a Lolita look, which were popular during the grunge era. This is not the Saint Laurent of the past. Heidi made little effort to play with the code of the Saint Laurent heritage, but this collection will surely attract a younger crowd to this historic label....
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